Rakennusten korjausmaalaus (in english)

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The customer had comissioned to have their panel door repainted. For this, I'll need to remove the old paint from the surface.


Step 1: Removing the paint

What I'll need:
  • a heat gun
  • paint scrapers
  • a respirator mask
  • protective glasses

As I've mentioned before I'll need to remove the old paint. Luckily the surface is coated with is an alkyd paint, so the process of removing it wouldn't be that difficult.

First thing before I start any task is for me to use a protective mask and glasses to shield myself from any toxic fumes and from anything getting into my eyes.

After this I'd move onward to the task at hand, removing the paint. For this I used a heat gun to soften the paint, then I would scrape the surface with a paint scraper.

Step 2: Sanding

What I'll need:
  • some sandpaper
  • a sander
  • a dust mask
  • protective glasses
After multiple hours of removing the old paint job, I can move onto the next step: Sanding. And before anything, I'll need protection. As before I'll be using some protective glasses but I'll also be using a dust mask.

For the grit level of my sandpapers, I started off with a grit level of P100 to sand the surface. Then with the sander I used a P120 to sand the panels carefully, so that the curves of the panels stayed intact. Lastly, I'd use a P240 sandpaeper to finely sand the frames and panels lightly to get a smooth surface.

Step 3: Priming the surface

What I'll need:
  • a primer (Uula's sisäpohjamaali)
  • some paintbrushes
After I'm finished with sanding the door, I'll brush off any excess dust that has accumulated on the surface and move onto priming the surface

For primer I used Uula's sisäpohjamaali and painted with a 50mm paintbrush.

Order of painting frames and panels.
Order of priming the frames and panels starting from top to bottom.

Step 4: Adding filler + another coat of primer

 What I'll need...

For filler:
  • Filler (Teknos' Silora A)
  • some Japanese spatulas
  • some sandpaper
For priming:
  • a primer (Uula's sisäpohjamaali)
  • some paintbrushes

During the process of sanding and priming, I noticed how there were crack at the top of the panel door and between the frames that needed filling. So after letting the primes dry for at least 2 hours, I'd could start adding filler to the cracks.

For this I used Teknos' Silora A for filler. I utilized Japanese spatulas to spread the filler evenly on the surface. After the filler has fully dried I'd sand the places in which I have added filler. For this, I used sandpaper with a grit level of P120.

The next images show my process in this step.

Priming the surface


Another coat of primer


When the primer had dried, I would again add filler as well as add another coat of primer with the same tools as used in steps 3 and 4 to get a smooth surface. It is crucial that I do this, since any imperfections will show up during the painting process.

The next images show my process in this step.

Adding filler (again)


Adding a coat of primer (again)


Step 5: Painting the surface

What I'll need:
  • a primer (Uula's Into kalustemaali)
  • a 50mm paintbrush
After letting the primer dry for at least 2 hours, I could then move forward to the next step: Painting the surface. For this I used Uula's Into kalustemaali and for the brush I used a 50mm paintbrush.

I would paint the frames and panels in the same orded as I had primed them in step 3.

The next images show my process in this step.

Painting the surface




After letting the paint fully dry (aprox. 12h), I would repeat step 5 again to get a smoother coat on the surface of the panel door.

Painting the surface (again)


Step 6: Packaging the panel door

When the surface paint of the panel door has finally dried, I would move onto my last task of packaging the door for the customer. For this, I used some rolls of paper to use as packaging paper.

The nect images show my process in this step.

Packaging the panel door




Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen sisä-, seinä, Lattia, talo Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti
Before
 
Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen seinä, Ovenkahva, Kodin ovi, rakennus Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti
After





















Room

I was tasked to paint this room in two different colors as well as add painted squares on opposite sides of the room.

Step 1: Preparations

What I'll need:
  • masking tape
  • protective paper
Before I could do anything the alls, I first had to do some preparations

First, I needed to cover the floor with protective paper (making sure that I sue paper that wouldn't absorb paint easily). Then I'd use masking tape to keep the paper in place + tape the baseboar. Lastly, I
d tape the sides of the light switch and wall socker, so that no exccess paint could accidentally go into them.


Step 2: Sanding + removing raised area

What I'll need:
  • some sandpaper
  • a rotatable pole (for sandpaper)
  • a knife
Because I have been using this room to paint multilpe things, the paint layes have started to bubble on the surface. I had also noticed a large raised area at the bottom left corner of one of the walls, which I had to remove.

To remove those air bubbles I used some sandpaper witha  grit level of P100 as well as a rotatable pole sander to reach the air bubbles on the half of the wall

For the raised area I used a kife to cut around the hole to remove the whole area.

The next images show my progress on this step.

Sanding + removing raised area


I would continue to sand the other walls as normal, removing any air bubbles I saw. After I had snaded all the walls so that ther were smooth to the touch, I'd then clean up any excess dust that had accumulated on the walls as well as any piles on the ground with a vacuum.

Sanding


Sanding + vacuuming


Step 3: Adding primer to the walls

What I'll need
  • Primer (Tikkurila's Siro 2 Pohja- ja kattomaali)
  • a paint edger
  • a corner edger paint roller
  • a 50mm paintbrush
  • a paint roller
  • an extension pole (for paint roller)
  • a paint tray
After sanding the walls until all the air bubbles were removed, I could move toward adding primer to the walls. I would fix up the raised area at a lated time, so for now I'd just let it be.

For the primer I used Tikkurila's Siro 2 Pohja. ja kattomaali.

To start, I first marked the edges of the baseboard with a 50mm paintbrush using the primer. I'd also mark the roomäs ceiling molding with a paint edger. I would also paint the edges of the walls with a corner edger paint roller. Lastly I would paint around the window casing, light switch and wall socket.

The next images show my progress on this step.

Adding primer to the walls




Step 3.5: Continuing to add primer to the walls

After painting the edges of the baseboard, ceiling molding, the window casing, light switch and wall socket and letting the paint dry, I could start painting the walls.

For this I used a paint roller, and extension pole, a paint tray and the primer itself.

I'd paint the walls bby painting up and down and the end it off with painting from the bottom going all the way up until I reach the marked ceiling molding that I've made. I would repeat this with the other two walls until I'm finished.

Continuing to add primer to the walls



Step 4: Adding universel filler onto walls + sanding

What I'll need:
  • some filler (Tikkurila's Presto LF+)
  • some Japanese spatulas
  • some sandpaper
  • a Light source
Since the air bubbles as well as the raised area had left lots of holes onto the walls, so I had to sue some filler to make the walls as flat as possible

For this, I used Tikkurila's Presto LF+ for the filler and used Japanese spatulas to evenly spread the filler onto the surface. I also used an additional light source, so I could see any imperfections more easily.

The next images show my process in this step.

Adding filler onto the walls



Because the raised area I had cut was very deep, I needed to add filler multiple times, which meant that it needed to dry for longer. So for now, that would be the only hole with minimul sanding, since it would be still wet. But all the other pathces of filler would dry quicker, so that I could move onto sanding them

For the sandpaper I sued a grit level of P100 to sand the walls. I left the very deep cut untoached until it fully dried in a few days.


Step 5: Spot painting + adding filler

What I'll need...

For spot painting:
  • paint (Tikkurila's Siro 2)
  • a mini paint roller
  • a paint tray
For filler:
  • some filler (Tikkurila's Presto LF+)
  • some Japanese spatulas
  • some sandpaper
After I've sanded most of the filler spots, I could then move onto the next step: Spot painting. For this, I used Tikkurila's Siro 2 and also chose a mini paint roller to spot paint the walls. I would also add filler again onto the raised area and wait until it would dry so I could sand it.

The next images show my process in this step.

Spot painting


Adding filler


Step 6: Painting the window casing and ceiling molding

What I'll need...
  • paint (Teknos' Aqua 80)
  • a 25mm paintbrush
  • a round paintbrush
While the primer and the filler was still drying, in the meantime I could paint the window casing as well as the ceiling molding while I wait. For the paint I used Teknos' Aqua 80 and used a 25mm paintbrush as well as a round paintbrush.

The next images show my process in this step.

Painting the window casing


Painting the ceiling molding


Step 7: Painting the walls + sanding filler spot


After all the paint (+ the raised area) has dried I could finally move onto the nect step, painting the walls. But before I could do that I needed to sand the raised area with P100 sandpaper. When I've done that, I could paint over it with the same primer as I've used before, using a mini roller to coat the surface

When that's done I could move onto painting the walls. For the paint I used Tikkurila's Nova 2.

I would then repeat the instruction of step 3, just with the paint I mentioner before.

The next images show my process in this step.

Painting the walls + sanding filler spot

 Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen laatikko, sisä-, suojus, punainen Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen maa, teksti, betoni, seinä Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen teksti, Jätesäiliö, kulho, sisä- Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti

 Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen teksti, maa, piha-, taide Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen teksti, henkilö, jalkineet, maa Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti 
Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen maalaus, taide, maa Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen betoni, Komposiitti, maa, piha- Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti

Painting the walls

 Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen seinä, rakennus, laasti, Komposiitti Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen jalkineet, Komposiitti, betoni, maa Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen seinä, sisä-, laasti, talo Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen rakennus, seinä, talo, sisä- Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti

Step 7.5: Continuing to add paint to the walls

What I'll need...
  • paint (Tikkurila's Nova 2 in the color blue)
  • a paint roller
  • an extension pole (for the paint roller)
  • a paint tray
  • paint (Eurodecor's sisustusmaali in the color green)
  • a 50mm paintbrush
  • a paint edger
After painting the edges of the baseboard, ceiling molding, the window casing, light switch and wall socket and letting the paint dry, I could starrt painting the walls. I would repeat the instructions in step 3.5 just with a different paint (Tikkurila's Nova 2).

The next images show my process in this step.

Continuing to add paint to the walls



 Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen seinä, sisä-, laasti, rakennus Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen Komposiitti, maa, seinä, sisä- Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen sisä-, seinä, rakennus, talo Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen seinä, sisä-, laasti, talo Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti

After I've let the surface dry, I needed to choose another paint color to paint one of the walls. For this, I chose Eurodecor's sisustusmaali.

I'd then repeat the instructions of steps 3-3.5, but with the mentioned paint and only paint one of the walls.

Continuing to add paint to one of the walls




I was tasked to paint two squares, one with masking tape and one without the help of any tape. First, I started off with sketching squares on opposites sides of the walls with the help of the of a ruler. then on the right side of the wall I'd taped around the square while leaving the left side square without being taped.

The next images show my process in this step.

Painting squares

 Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen teksti, Jätesäiliö, ämpäri, kontti Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen seinä, Suorakaide, sisä-, ikkuna Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen sumu, lentokone, seinä Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen seinä, sisä-, sumu Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti

Then I had alternated between painting the two squares, being extra careful that I would stay in the lines of the squares. For this, I multiple different sized paintbrushes: a 50mm paintbrush, a round paintbrush and two smaller paintbrushes to get the corners of the squares.

I started off painting the right side square, only painting the edges of the tape with a 50mm paintbrush, creating an air tight sela on the masking tape.

After that, I alternated to the left side square, painting the edges with the same brush to get a straight line on all sides.

Painting squares

 Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen Suorakaide, muotoilu, taide Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen teksti, Suorakaide, muotoilu, taide Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti

After letting the painted squared dry, I would then continue painting them fully, using a 50mm paintbrush to fill in the squares. In the meantime, while waiting for the squares to dry, I would touch-up the window's casing. For this, I used Teknos' Aqua 80 for the paint as well as a 50mm paintbrush and some smaller paintbrushes.

Painting squares + touch-ups

 Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen seinä, Jätesäiliö, teksti, rakentaminen Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen maa, likainen, työkalu, taide Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen seinä, WC, kylpyhuone, sisä- Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen sisä-, lautanen, kulho, astiat Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti

Step 9: Painting the baseboard + removing protective paper / masking tape

What I'll need...
  • paint (Teknos' Aqua 80)
  • a 50mm paintbrush
  • some masking tape
After letting all the painted surfaces dry, I could move onto the last step: Painting the baseboard. After I removed some of the masking tape that was covering it, I could stat painting. For the paint I used Teknos' Aqua 80 and a 50mm paintbrush.

The next images show my progress in this step.

Painting the baseboard


After I let the baseboard fully dry, I could then remove the protective paper from the floor as well as any excess masking tape that was covering the light switch and wall socket.

Removing portective paper / masking tape



Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen seinä, sisä-, sisustussuunnittelu, laasti Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti
Before
Kuva, joka sisältää kohteen sisä-, seinä, Lattia, rakennus Kuvaus luotu automaattisesti
After

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